Monday, June 25, 2012
the word of london
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Holiday Greetings (Duh!)
Absolutely no excuse for how long it has been since I have posted. Hopefully someone is still reading!
First of all – Merry Christmas! I hope everyone has fabulous holiday plans. Before you get too worried about me spending Christmas alone in a mouse infested hostel, fear not! I will be spending Christmas at my friend Michael’s house where the occasion is celebrated without a tree and no stockings but lots and lots of food and drink. J
Apparently one of the most important British Christmas traditions is an appearance at your local pub! Obviously there will be more details about that later (assuming I remember them!) but clearly I need to back track a bit to tell you all what I’ve been up to!
I’ll continue with the holiday theme…I was much more depressed about spending Thanksgiving away from the states than I was about Christmas. After all, it is only us nutty North Americans that celebrate Turkey Day! But I needn’t have worried. It turned out to be one of the most fun Thanksgivings I’ve ever had. Whole Foods on High Street Kensington, a short walk from my house, catered an amazing American style Thanksgiving for myself and several other transplanted Americans who I live with. We even shared the meal with two Canadians and an Australian; it was his first Thanksgiving ever! We were expecting a meal served in disposable containers which we would have to take turns heating in the microwaves in the Whole Foods cafeteria. Were we ever surprised to be given a star treatment that included real dishes, servers, and two kinds of dessert! More importantly, I found a display of Sam Adams Boston Lager while we were searching for whipped cream for the pumpkin pie. When we went around the table sharing things we were thankful for (yes, this was my idea) being able to drink my favorite beer was definitely on the list.
We had so much fun at our Lost Boys (and Girls) Thanksgiving our house decided to have a Christmas potluck before it emptied out. (People are heading home…it is just me, my room mate Jess, and our friend Matt, the Australian who’d never had a Thanksgiving, left until after New Year’s. And the mice of course. One tried to make a nest in my laundry pile last night. NOT cool.) We set up a Christmas tree and each of us brought something to share; mince pies, risotto, fried chicken, Greek salad. I contributed Christmas crackers (the exploding, favor-producing variety) which were a big hit. From them we got gifts as diverse as a dolphin-shaped-bottle-opener-key-chain (which, let’s face it, is almost too good to be true!), nail clippers, and a green gem stone studded barrette. We all put on our paper crowns, talked, laughed and ate out way through the get together and topped it off with a Christmas favorite: we all lay amid the leftovers and watched Love Actually.
Some true Christmas culture came my way via my best friend Chrissy’s visit. My mother sent her off with all my Christmas presents (most if which are out of sight under my bed so I don’t open them until the 25th!) one of which was two tickets to the London Handel Society’s performance of the Messiah. My room mate Jess and I made it to our seats just as the choir was filing on to their risers at the front of St. George’s Church, Hanover Square, where Handel himself worshipped. I thought having sung some pieces from the Messiah had given me an appreciation for it but truly, one really has to hear it, sung professionally in its entirety as it was meant to be performed to really grasp how truly, truly beautiful it is. I spent the entire evening listening in a state of admiration which was occasionally increased to goose bump inducing awe. The soloist’s were truly magnificent. Particular highlights were “Oh Thou that Tellest Good Tidings to
Christmas time in
Since it is about to be Christmas I’m going to end on a sappy note: A lot of people have commented on the blog, e-mailed me, written, posted “I miss you,” on my Facebook wall, or even visited since I’ve been over here. No Christmas gift will ever mean as much as those good wishes and little bits of love have meant. Moving to a foreign country has made me realize how much good friendships mean; they really brighten your life from the inside out. So thanks very much to all of my friends and family on both sides of the
Sunday, October 12, 2008
My (Almost) Glamorous London Life (and Shoes!)
Anyone who’s ever shopped with me knows that it isn’t something I do till I drop…it is something I do until my credit card gets rejected. (Don’t worry Mom and Dad – that hasn’t happened.) But even being aware of the credit crunch hasn’t stopped me from finding some really unbeatable bargains and some absolute must haves.
Exploring markets has become one of my favorite ways to spend a weekend. When the weather is nice I love to wander down Portobello Road where you can buy kitschy antiques (the nice stuff is put away by 8 or 9ish; if you want quality it means a really early morning…I haven’t been able to fit that in to my “how to spend a Saturday” equation yet), tacky souvenirs, vintage clothes and lunch all in one place. If you breeze by the entire touristy section, as I did on my first visit (I was being shown Portobello Market by a
“Two quid love.”
Sold!
I found another great pair of shoes at a charity shop (aka thrift store) on Kensington High Street. I made out like a fashion intern let loose in the sample room at this place…I bought a dress, a belt, and shoes for 30ish pounds. Dress and belt are both great but the shoes were the buy of the day on that particular shopping extravaganza. Words can’t possibly do these shoes justice so I’ll let speak for themselves…
If you ever come to
So my shopping life is nearly as glamorous as I could wish it to be. I’m still lusting after the designer dresses at Harrod’s and the 85 pound (that like over one hundred dollars for those of you not keeping up with the conversion rates) scarves at Liberty’s but I think I’ve still done okay. (I'm already worried about how all of this stuff is going to get back to the states!)
In fact, a few things have worked out better than I could have imagined them. Picture this: A party attended by models, fashion designers who’ve clothed the likes of Courtney Love and Paris Hilton, and actresses who are mentioned almost daily in the
Not when you’ve made friends with one of the guys helping do display installations it’s not!
Here’s how I attended an On/Off (fashion production company) London Week Fashion Party at the Royal Academy of Art (which is almost cool enough to make up for the fact my building has mice!):
I’ve made friends with a British guy (the same who taught me the word knackered) who is in product design. He makes lighting displays, furniture – that kind of thing. For fashion week he was asked to build a wall of ipods. Since I spent a Saturday afternoon in his workshop helping him glue this thing together and a Sunday afternoon keeping him company/“helping” while he installed it I guess he felt obligated to take me along for some kind of fashion week event. Or maybe that had something to do with a conversation that went something like this:
Me: So since I helped you build this thing and helped you carry it up and down stairs are you going to give me tickets to a fashion week show?
Michael: Uh…the shows all happen during the day. I didn’t think you would want to take off work. Want to go to a party instead?
Let’s recap:
Do I want to go to a London Fashion Week Party?
(Is this a trick question?)
So on a much anticipated Monday evening I rushed to finish everything the lawyers needed me to do at work (aka print their spreadsheets and put stamps on envelopes), change in to a fashion week party ensemble (super cute gray knit dress with waist clinching black belt, black stockings with sexy details -including bows!- down the back, a pair of swingy silver earrings, pinned my hair up in twists and coils, and swapped my boots for taxi cab yellow heels…the same pair I bought with the former flat mates after we drank too much wine at dinner.I was neither over-dressed, nor the most dressed up there. There was everything things from a cheetah print mumu style dress (on a drag queen) to skinny jeans with leather jackets and head bands with bows so big they looked like Mickey Mouse Club accessories.
I spent the evening in competition with my date to see who could drink the most free champagne (he won – but I was drunker), chatting up gay designers and their husbands, admiring how hot the drag queen’s shoes were, and just generally feeling like the gorgeous, has-great-plans-every-night girl that every girl wants to be. Oh and I got free bags!
The next day reading the commuter paper on the Tube home and thinking for the umpteenth time that if I ever went back to one of these things then maybe I wouldn’t drink quite so much champagne I read that Kelly Brook (English model, singer, and actress), had been photographed at the On/Off party at the Royal Academy.
Fashion Week Parties definitely fit with my fantasy
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
The Language Barrier
“Wait,” you say, “Maggie's in
Well that's what I thought too. I mean I was prepared for cute British accents and funny words like ''biscuit'' for cookie or ''crumpet'' for English muffins but what I wasn't prepared for were times where I literally stare at someone who's speaking to me and go, ''Whhhaaat?'' because I have no idea what they have just said.
Despite the fact that part of our Bunac (that's the program that so kindly provided me a visa to be here for six months) orientation was a crash course in British expressions, I have still encountered phrases, words, and usage that totally stump me. Read on to discover just how far apart British and American English have drifted....
First of all - if you ever travel in the
The other word we learned how to use at orientation is “fit.” This doesn't mean that you spend a lot time at the gym. The American English equivalent would be “hot” - as in attractive. To Brits, saying anything about “hot,” makes them wonder if they should open a window. Needless to say, whenever a guy in a pub tells me “You're really fit,” it makes me wonder how the heck he thinks he knows if I have a six pack or something. (Then I remember the translation and giggle.)
...
In French class we learned the term “idiom;” to describe expressions, words, and phrases that are used in a language by native speakers but don’t really make sense to anyone else. To someone learning English the phrase ''kicked the bucket,'' must seem related only to unnecessary foot pain, yet we all know its meaning. I've come across a few idioms that have really expanded my British vocabulary. One experience was particularly funny/notable. It happened not long after made friends with a British guy. I called him up (or should I say ''rang'' him?) just to say hi/ask what he was up to. The conversation began pretty typically and then took a strange turn:
Him: Hey Mags, how are you?
Me: I'm good, how are you?
Him: Uhhh, I'm totally knackered.
Me: You're What!? (The phone is up to my ear and I am thinking...woah, why is he telling me he's naked? I thought British people were supposed to be reserved!)
Him: Knackered. Tired. Beat. Exhausted.
Me: Oh! I thought...well never mind.
Him (laughing): Did you think I meant naked?
Me: No comment.
I later found out from my boss that the word ''knackered,'' comes from putting down race horses. Apparently when a horse had outlived their glory days they were taken away to be shot. Thus the meaning “dead tired.” (This is yet more evidence that British people are obsessed with horses.)
Sometimes I really have to actually translate. What a British person might say and what I might I might imagine they mean can be quite different. For example the other day at work, Simon, the guy who handles paying the bills etc. came back in and announced, “I’ve just found a tenner in the toilet. Is anyone missing one?”
But the best/funniest/most embarrassing language barrier I have been up against has been trying to understand people on the phone at work. I have to ask every single person who calls to spell out their name and where they are calling from because I took away the lesson, “Don't assume anything,” from the incident described below:
Phone Rings.
Me (in my secretary voice): Good afternoon, ASG, how can I help you?
Person on the other end: Hello, I'm trying to speak to someone who has called me from your number regarding waiters for this weekend. I couldn't understand them. But I need to speak to them about the waiters.
Me: Have you worked with our company before sir?
Him: No, no I've just been in contact with him about the waiters. He is supposed to be hiring waiters for this weekend. He’s staying with us.
So I am racking my brains for a way in which this has anything at all to do with visas or immigration enquiries. I decide there must be a huge event this weekend that someone has to hire waiters for short-term and this guy needs to ask questions about their visas. Since he couldn't understand who left him the message I figure I will fill out a “New Enquiry,” sheet and pass it off to one of the attorneys.
Me: Sir, I'm just going to take some details from you and someone will be able to return your call shortly to answer your questions.
So I fill out this sheet with this guy's contact details and his enquiry about hiring waiters for the weekend. A little while later one of ASG's solicitors comes to the front desk to asks:
Andrew: Maggie, did you write this number down any where else? It doesn't exist. And I Googled Bobby Castle and I can’t find that either.
Me: No, I'm sorry. I was having trouble understanding him...he had a really thick accent…He said he’s from
Andrew: Maybe it was a prank call. No worries, I'll get to the bottom of this!
Several Google searches later Andrew comes back going “
Me (feeling dumb): Oh! Bovey!
Andrew (an English native): Don’t worry, I think they speak funny in
So he rings the guy back to try and figure out what he needs. Apparently all he kept talking about is the person who needs to hire the waiters for the weekend and Andrew couldn’t make heads or tails of it either. He gets off the phone and starts asking everyone in the office if they have any idea what this could possibly be about because the guy was going on about the person who had left him a message about the waiters. This goes on for a while until Andrew thinks to mention the bloke was calling from
At this point our American lawyer looks up and goes, “
Cue laughter from entire office.
Monday, September 22, 2008
A Visit to Saint Paul's
First on my to-do-and-see list was St. Paul’s Cathedral. I had taken a peek in a few weekends ago when I was in that area but as drinks at the pub were calling my name I didn’t have time to make paying the admission fee worth it. However, every art history lesson I have ever taken and every Sunday I’ve spent breathing incense demanded that I go back. So last Saturday morning, off I went…
Like St. Peter’s in Rome, St. Paul’s is a baroque style church (or as the English say it BA-rock…weird). I know from my seventeenth century art history class that the main thought behind the architectural style is that it is not only supposed to be a feast for the eyes but elevating for the spirit as well. St. Paul’s is definitely that. It’s one of those places where you naturally walk slower and feel more peaceful while at the same time you are completely in awe of the splendor that surrounds you.
This could have been a really short post because my visit was almost wasted before it properly began. I wanted to take the guided tour but the cathedral was short on guides and the last tour of the day left 20 minutes before I arrived. Upon seeing my genuine disappointment the friendly ladies at the welcome desk recommended the audio tour. I refrained from telling them that as a natural city girl I judge people who commit the faux pas of looking like tourists by wearing headphones in every major site almost as much as I judge the ones who stand in big groups on the metro platform during rush hour. There is nothing tackier than an audio pack clipped to your hip and a fanny pack on the other side to balance the “I’m from out of town” look. But, having already paid my eight pound admission fee I decided I really should try and learn as much as I could…So I sucked it up, wore the headphones, and hid the audio pack in my purse.
Something like three hours and three hundred stairs later, I was converted to audio tour fandom. My pursuit of knowledge and culture will never be thwarted by ugly headphones again. (Although I just as strongly vow that I will never be caught dead in a fanny pack.) Thank goodness I was by myself for this jaunt…I am not sure any one else could have listened to archival clips of Winston Churchill’s funeral and old stories about who has played on the cathedral organ (Mendelssohn once played so long the cathedral staff let the air out of the instrument so people would leave!) and detailed explanations about the symbolism of modern Christian art work display in the cathedral and enjoyed it so much.
I can’t possibly recount everything here so I’ll give you my favorite bits….
The cathedral was designed by Sir Christopher Wren in the seventeenth century after the medieval cathedral burned down in the great London fire. The only piece of the old cathedral that currently resides in the “New St. Paul’s,” is a statue of John Donne, the famous poet, who was less famously, became the Dean of Saint Paul’s later in life. Art historians credit the statue’s survival to the fact it was the only statue with no protruding limbs. This is because Donne posed for it wrapped in a mock funeral shroud. So---he survived because he played dead. Creepy.
Wren was obsessed with topping St. Paul’s with a dome that would look perfect from every imaginable angle and viewpoint. That was a tall order (hehehe) because he realized how difficult it would be to create something that would look as proportionally beautiful from the inside as well as out. So, he built two; one inside the other – the outer looks great to the people viewing the cathedral as part of a city skyline and the inner is the perfect size for people to admire it from underneath.
Maybe it’s because I climbed so many stairs to get a really good look at it, but the dome was the most memorable part of the tour. The inside is decorated with scenes from the life of Saint Paul, from conversion, to letter writing, and imprisonment. The cathedral could probably have a special tour to discuss the symbolism of the paintings alone. Of course with so many stairs to climb before it could really start only really dedicated art history nerds like me would show up….
The rules about not building anything to obstruct the view of the capital in DC are probably lifted right from London’s precedent about not obstructing the view of Saint Paul’s. In WWII the commitment to preserving the cathedral was so strong a special volunteer force, called St. Paul’s watch, positioned themselves around the building and extinguished any bombs that found their way in. Some damage was sustained but overall the Cathedral survived intact and the Saint Paul’s watch is credited with saving the cathedral from destruction.
Whew! That was very truncated version of last Saturday’s visit. After all the stair climbing I was hungry so that night I had a personal picnic in Hyde Park while I listened to a free BBC concert. I’m not sure what the best part was…the ABBA sing-a-long (Thanks Mom for the Mama Mia soundtrack – when my computer arrived the first thing I did was download it on to my ipod!), the part when the radio was turned on during a break and Bruce Springsteen’s Born to Run was blasting across the whole park (and I don’t think I was the only one there who knew every word!) or the fact that London Philharmonic orchestra opened their set with Star Trek: The Next Generation’s theme music and continued with a James Bond medley. Or maybe it was my chocolate fudge cheesecake.
Keep reading----this week I had a personal encounter with London Fashion week that will make it up here sooner or later!
Sunday, September 7, 2008
The London Launch
Speaking of food....British cuisine generally gets a bad rep. While so called "pub grub" is pretty much what is being consumed in every frat house in America and I am trying to avoid it, the English do breakfast surprisingly well. Waffles and French toast may be knocked off the top of my list as favorite breakfast foods now that I know about the plethora of other options out there: bagels and lox, crepes, scrambled eggs on toast with grilled tomatoes, Welsh Rabbit, a dish that features an egg and cheese mixture grilled on toast so that it puffs up in to an eggy, cheesy, crispy-bottomed mound of deliciousness, and several varieties of sausage (including venison!) are some of the delicacies I've tried since I've been here. Mom and Dad - you will be happy to know that I will now eat eggs in a way besides scrambled...I like them poached too!
So that's it...a very abbrevated recap of my first month in London. I hope to post more often from now on now that the stress of job hunting and flat finding are both over with. Please e-mail/comment about what you see here; send praise and criticism! This is supposed to be an exercise in real-life writing as well as a way to keep everyone updated about what I am doing!
Thanks for reading!
Cheers! (A British expression that means so much more than the celebratory clinking of glasses...it is a good substitute for thank you and good bye!)